Kitchen Cabinet Plans
2 Door Base

These are 2 door kitchen cabinet plans based on the open base cabinet found elsewhere on this website. Actually, the cabinet boxes themselves are identical. The only difference is that I've added doors and hinges to the open base.

Herein lies the beauty of the 32mm cabinet system. The same box can be configured in almost limitless ways. The 2 door base cabinet is one of the simplest, yet most common additions to your overall kitchen cabinet plans or garage cabinet plans.

Since the two cabinet boxes are the same, I'm going to focus here on the details of the door and hinging. For more details on the box itself, be sure to check out the details of the open base cabinet or any of the other kitchen cabinet plans listed on this site.

Hinges

For hinges I've chosen the Blum 120 degree, self-closing, CLIP top hinge with a 0mm cam-adjustable mounting plate. Several other manufacturers carry similar, high quality, concealed euro-style hinges. I'm not very familiar with any of the other brands, but I know you can't go too far wrong with hinges from Blum.

Using concealed euro-style hinges, you can mount your doors very close together. This results in a very tight reveal (the space between the doors) and a sharp appearance in your overall kitchen cabinet plans. You can also cover nearly the entire edge of the cabinet box with the door. The hinge allows two cabinets with doors to be installed right next to each other, leaving only 1/8" between the hinge sides of the doors. Because of the way the hinge mechanism works, you are still able to open both doors without any binding or scraping.

Hinge Adjustment

Another one of the superb features of any good concealed euro hinge is the three-way adjustment. By simply turning a screw, you can adjust the position of the door in any of three directions. This allows you to fine tune the reveal lines after the cabinet is installed without having to drill new holes, remove the hinge, or even remove the door.

Door Removal

And speaking of removing the door, they are easily removed for transportation, installation, or repair. The mounting plate attaches to the cabinet and the hinge itself attaches separately to the door. The two then snap together when you're ready to hang the door. They then release with the push of a button or lever if the door ever needs to be removed.

Buying Hinges

This brings up an important point when shopping for hinges. Often the base plate is sold separately from the hinge. This is so you can mix and match various hinge components for special door configurations such as full overlay, flush inset, partial overlay and various mounting angles. We're using full overlay in our kitchen cabinet plans, but the important thing to remember is to make sure you get both the hinge AND the plate.

Mounting Plate Installation

If you use a standard 32mm boring pattern on your cabinet box, installing the mounting plate is VERY easy. The plates are usually attached to the wall ends at the top and bottom pairs of system holes (37mm from front edge of cabinet) using a special fastener called a system screw (specifically designed to fit into a 5mm system hole). If you aren't using system holes, there are mounting plates available that are designed for attachment with flat-headed wood screws.

Hinge Installation

Mounting the hinge to the door is a little bit trickier than mounting the plate. I highly recommend mounting the hinges to a piece of scrap wood the same size as the finished door as a test sample first. Once you get the hang of it (no pun intended), making a test piece will no longer be necessary. There are various jigs and boring devices available to make the task easier, but a good layout and a decent drill press will work just fine.

The most difficult part of the layout is locating the hinge cup hole (the large hole that contains the bulk of the hinge mechanism). Top to bottom alignment is pretty straightforward. The center of the hole needs to match the location of the center of the mounting plates and allow for the proper reveal at the top and bottom of the cabinet.

Door Reveals

In my kitchen cabinet plans I follow Blum's recommendation of a 10mm reveal at the top and flush at the bottom of the cabinet. The reason for the 10mm reveal is that Blum drawer slides raise up slightly when you pull them out. They need the 10mm clearance to avoid hitting the counter top. We want the tops of our drawers to align with the tops of our doors, thus the matching 10mm reveal.

Properly locating the hinge cup hole from the edge of the door is critical. If the hole is located too close to the edge of the door, the reveal between cabinets will be too large and the doors will hit each other at the center of the cabinet. Locate the hole too far from the edge and the door will bind on the cabinet wall end when you open it. Again, try it out on scrap first and you'll get the hang of it very quickly.

The two smaller holes to either side of the hinge cup hole are fairly simple, as long as you bore them the same distance from the edge of the door. This will ensure that the hinge mounts square to the door and everything operates smoothly. Two common approaches to attaching the hinge to the door use either pilot holes for flat-headed wood screws or the 8mm holes shown in the cabinet drawings. The 8mm hole accepts a nylon expansion fitting or a press-in fitting used with automatic boring and insertion machines. This will depend on which particular brand and style of hinge you buy.

Door Materials

For this set of kitchen cabinet plans, I have specified a white melamine door with white PVC edge banding. This simple combination is great for a basic slab door in your kitchen, garage, or closet. I also like the various patterns, colors, and wood grained melamine available. An attractive technique is to use an inexpensive white box and edge band the wall ends to match the pattern, color, or even real wood of the doors.

Plastic laminate (Wilsonart, Formica, Nevamar, Pionite, Abet Laminati, etc.) glued to both sides of 11/16" particle board makes an extremely durable door. The door is then edge banded with matching PVC. This is perhaps the most common door material used in commercial cabinetry, but it is also popular for residential use due to the wide array of unique laminate patterns available.

Of course wood doors can't be overlooked for their beauty and elegance. Hardwood veneer plywood can be sized the same as melamine and the edges finished with 0.5mm wood edge banding. This results in a very clean look, and you can add even more interest to the look by varying the direction of the grain from door to door or cabinet to cabinet.

Raised and recessed panel wood doors are another excellent option. If you don't have the tools and equipment to build your own, they are readily available, made-to-order, in nearly unlimited variations of style and wood species. The only thing to watch for is that the cutting list shows the door size BEFORE edge banding is added. So if you do make or buy wood doors (which won't have edge banding), be sure to use the door dimensions listed on the door layout elevation.

Door Pulls

One final note and then I'll wrap this up. I didn't specify any door pulls. There are so many options available that I'll just leave it up to you what type of door pull to use and where to mount them.

Drawing File

To view the 2 door base kitchen cabinet plans just click on the link below. If you'd like to download a copy to your computer, right click then "save-as". Either way, you'll need the Adobe reader to view the file.

View or Download "2 Door Base Cabinet 30W x 24D x 30.5T"



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